Buying Stainless Steel Cookware (Part I)
When you’re buying cookware, there are always a few questions you have to ask. My list starts off with two very basic questions: “What is the pan made out of?” and “What is the quality of said pan?” While the first question usually only requires a one or two-word response, the second question is what brings us here today. The “quality” of a pan is a very subjective question, and one that can only be answered with a combination of intense research and experience. Fortunately for you, I happen to have done quite a bit of research for my own cookware in my kitchen, and most of my time is spent over a stove-top using my pans and pots. An entire book could be written on cookware quality (and probably already has been published), but for right now, let’s focus on stainless steel cookware, and how to tell when you’ve found the right pan for you.
We’ve already discussed the pros and cons of stainless steel cookware, but for now, we’ll assume you’ve made up your mind, and are looking to buy a stainless steel cookware set. What terminology can you look forward to reading countless times? First off, stainless steel is an alloy. That means it’s comprised of different metals. With cookware, stainless steel usually means it’s 18% chromium, 8-10% nickel, with the rest composed of iron. When you see the term 18/8 or 18/10 it’s referring to the chromium/nickel ratio.
The next most common thing you’ll see when buying stainless steel cookware is ‘copper core’ or ‘aluminum core.’ Stainless steel does not conduct heat very well, so it takes a fair amount of time for it to heat up, and it holds heat well past the point where you turn off the heat source. Most manufacturers use copper or aluminum in the core of the pan to get around this problem. While copper or aluminum-based pans aren’t as durable as stainless steel, they heat up and cool down more quickly than stainless steel. Often, pans with these cores are associated with the terms triple-ply or five-ply (or however many “plys” there are). This means that there are three layers (or five, six, seven, all the way up to nine) of copper or aluminum in the core of the pan. If you’re buying a stainless steel pan with a copper or aluminum core, make sure the core runs all the way up to the lip of the pan. Many manufacturers get around the added cost of materials and construction by only putting the core in the bottom of the pan. This can cause uneven heating and burnt food. The more layers, the greater control you will have over maniuplating the surface temperature of the pan. This also means you’ll be spending a decent amount of money.
Which brings us to out next point. Stainless steel cookware isn’t cheap, but there are a few ways to make sure you’re getting the most bang for your buck. First, figure out what you need out of your cookware, and how you use it in the kitchen. Many caterers start their business with some amount of cookware and kitchen tools already at their disposal, but what more do you need? If you have a healthy contingent of pots and pans and you only need one or two more to round off your collection, then shop around and look for either small sets or individual pieces. Stainless steel cookware can easily cost $100 a piece depending on where you are and what you’re buying. If you need a larger array of new pans, then always go for a set. Buying a set off cookware is always more cost-effective than buying each piece individually. The only downside to this is that you’re stuck with one brand, and therefore one style, of pans. The greater number of pans in a set, the more research you should do on the brand and the products they put on the market.
Two other aspects of cookware that I always evaluate before buying anything is how the pan feels in my hand, and the style of lid. You want a lid that seals in moisture, but also lets some steam out of the pan. Personally, I prefer glass lids as they allow you to look into the pan without opening the lid. Unfortunately, most stainless steel pans come with stainless steel lids, so if you see a set with glass lids, let me know! It’s also important to test how the pans will feel in your hand. This seems odd, but that pan will spend a lot of time in your hands if it is a fry or saute pan. The handle should feel good in your hand, and the weight should be bearable. If the pan is too heavy for you, look for a lighter model. In addition, the base of the handle (where it meets the pot) should have an opening to stop the heat emanating from the pan from coming up to the tip of the handle. If your stainless steel pan doesn’t have that, be ready to spend a lot of time with your hand under cold running water.
There are a number of other considerations, but this is a good starting point. In future posts we’ll look in more detail at individual stainless steel cookware sets, pans, and brands so you have a better idea of what to look for, but for now, use this as a guide to start researching your own purchases. Until next time!
